Wednesday 31 January 2007

Last hours in Cuba

We have passed the 'last 24 hours' mark. On our to do list we have wiped out: the Museo de la Revolucion, a cigar factory, another shopping tour at our favorite fair, a baseball game, a bongo course for the up and coming musician Matzito de Santiago and a little trip to Shakira's Laundry Shop, where there is nothing 'underneath' our clothes.
Still to go tonight: Getting laundry, a last mojito, a daiquiri at Floritida, a dinner at Julia's, a bongo buy on the black marked and of course and - a last night full of Cuban Sabor spiced up with a salsa tune or two, together with our two Danes.

Rob is afraid to go home - gotten so used to the 23 degrees at night in Cuba... As for me, a Cuba Conclusion is to be written on the plane down south to Buenos Aires - as one door opens and hopefully another one opens (so far I haven't got any response to my housing inquieries...).

Cuba Conclusions ... to be continued...

U2 must have been to Cuba !??

A Beautyful Day - our first glimpse at the beach of Cayo Lavisa.

Wild Honey - Cuba as a whole!

Bad - stomach.

Stuck in the Moment - or in Vinales without a visa!!!

Misterious Ways - but somehow everything works out...

In God's Country - in the valley of Vinales.

All I want is you - Diet Coke, Robins water of life.

Zoo Station - there you can rent a bed, too!

Still Haven't Found What I'm Looking For - the autopista and other towns in Cuba.

Running to Stand Still - the toilet.

Exit - on the autopista, they are meassured in hours - don't miss your's!!!

One - nice culo!!!

All Because of You - George W. Bush!!!

One Step Closer - to home and love, says Robin.

Even Better Than the Real Thing - Cuban cigars bought on the black marked.

Sunday, Bloody Sunday - the budget is running low and no church to pray in.

Party Girl - lots of them!

Discoteque - where you get offered everything except a drink!

Angel of Harlem - many of those, mostly seen in the arms of white 50-year old men.

And then there is Phil Collins! Seems like Fidel has found a popy way to motivate the people and keeping up the illusion having played "[...] another day for you and me in paradise..." over and over again - all over the island.

Tuesday 30 January 2007

Vinales II

We find the best paladar ever in Cuba - el jefe - Uhvaldo, who is to find in the Lonely Planet Cuba. He also has a casa. What ever you'll eat there - you'll love it!!!
We take a little hiking tour through the valley, tabaco farm, eat freshly harvested bananas and I have to watch some dudes climb in the Cuban climing Eldorado - I almost puke, not beeing able to take part. Though, I manage a boulder problem I call "La visa ,no tengo".
Batman's friend, Robin - gets to know a boxer, Juan, which becomes the second cigar supplier of our trip. My the Gods of customs be friendly the 2nd of February!
After a good nights sleep without zoo, kids AND a working shower - Robin Hood, and his accomplice Hermano Tuck take another buss with the two Danes - heading for the northern Coast - Cayo Lavisa. On our way we enjoy Robin's Ipod and we find out - U2 must have been to Cuba!

Vinales and hospitality

We arrive at the bus station 1,5 minutes before the bus to Vinales leaves. Todo bien! Of course, on the bus, one has to speak to foreigners and again, four languanges come in handy (especially speaking German with a Peruvian, who speaks Swedish as well...?...).
Finally in Vinales, we meet a Danish couple and hook up to find a casa. We follow a skinny guy to his house. His wife uses all of her 5 Spanglish words to make us comefortable. THEN... we get asked to show our visas (a loose piece of paper not stapled into the passaporte). We've never been asked before - but here in Vinales, a small farming communi(s)ty - no visa, no casa!!!
So we leave, as do the Danes, in socialistic solidarity.When we explain our problem to other casa owners - all we get are smiles; but a cold hand.
"You see, her everything is pequenio, everybody talks - without visa we have to pay a 1000 pesos in fines ( equals 1000 euro)".
But there lives an angel in town, who works hard to get us a roof over our sunburned scalps. "If not find somesing, you sleep here - I not afraid!" The guy has got cojones!
After 4 hours... a women shows up, taking us to another amiga, who leads us to two other houses, of which the latter says " Entra! 20 pesos" (double the price...). We are very happy and say "Yes", not knowing that a whole zoo, a crying baby and a snoring husband awaits us when we get home after we have had a marvelous at who elses house - the Angel's.
The next day we move casas. Hoping for better conditions the following night.

Saturday 27 January 2007

Hospitality - Dignity - Revolution!

We are a bit worried not to find the autopista to Havana - but somehow - there are more signs toward Havana then from... We drive into the mountains (very jungle-like) and get a good view over the southern coast. On the peak I meet a man of the mountains, who fights the bush (like all Cubans) to keep the road open. He gives me vital informations which I understand at least 50 % of. I leave some of ours and Mona's gifts with him - pencils etc. for his kids, soap and a kitchen sponch for the family. On our way, we meet many children - and whenever we are able to stop in time (the breaks of the rental car are, well, you know...) we give them something - we even risk to give a younger man a lift. Mountain people - good people!
Along the road we read many signs like Hospitality - Dignity - Revolution! Propaganda - Fidel has figured it all out!
What hospitality means we'll soon find out in Viñales - but first we have a 360 Cuban style on the autopista and a good night's sleep in Havana.

The Mouth and a perfect lobster

We leave St. Clara on the the autopista heading for Trinidad. Too bad we can't find the right exit and drive an extra 100 km. We start to wonder if it's only us or all the turists having these problems...? But we get there eventually - and find a casa in La Boca (the mouth), a nice village by the sea on the southern coast of Cuba. No wonder Mr. Hemmingway was hanging around on this island - no wonder he got the Pulitzer prize for The Old Man And The Sea. Even I get inspired to write...
The casa owner rips us off - but we've gotten used to it. As a revenge we do not eat at his house - a thing we regret - at the Grill Caribe - we get the worst food , yet. So, after dinner we have a guerilla pick-nick at the shore with crackers, salsa and Havana Club añejo. Satisfied we fall asleep just before 11 pm - our earliest night so far.
After a continental breakfast, we have our bearings on Trinidad - probably the most beautiful, colonial style city in Cuba. Here people are less aggressive selling things, but we feel the competition between the salesmen and women - prices are not discussed aloud - the vendors have dozens of amounts crossed out on the palms of their hands; and it's not even 11 am.
One of the more aggressive ladies on the streets leads us to a private owned restaurant. This time we are lucky! The got lobster (which is illegal to sell for non-governmental restaurants). A plate costs 8 euro - the taste is indescribable good - and the last bites almost make our bellies burst.
Content we leave Trinidad, with yet another Che T-shirt - next stop Havana.

Wednesday 24 January 2007

The night life is dead in havana!

"The night life in Havana is dead!" says the waiter at "Julia", a paladar with the best roasted chicken so far. And it's true. Meeting Cubans in Havana is impossible at bars - at least if you not going to pay for everything and everybody. Cubans just don't have the income. It's sad and one just doesn't get the real Cuban sabor. But we got an ace in our sleeve. On the plane to La Havana, I met an old friend of mine from Oslo who is visiting her family. We send sms back and forth and finally meet for a nice cocktailly night in the metropole.
A bit reduced we drive out of town, heading south. It takes us two hours to find the motorway. 'Bad signing' in the guide books is a joke - signs don't exist.
We drive to Che's monument, and find a casa for the night in Santa Clara. Here the locals don't bother us - or better - only very view try to get a drink. The next day we head for Trinidad and the beaches! Vamos.

Cigars, Mojitos and Daiquiri fresa

Arriving late for the tour at one of the cigar factories - meet yet another amigo. "Hola, where you from? I work at the factory! You want to buy Cohibas, Montecristo - everything, I got..." We are brave this time, and follow the guy I call for "Juan". A 5 minutes walk (nothing in this city) up to stories, through 3 buildings, a bed room, a living room and saying "hi" to Juan´s wife, we get to a room with lots of cigar boxes. He strips us for all the money we got, while we leave with 75 big old cigars. Everybody is happy. The only one question is: do we get them out of the country - bought on the black market - without certificate - no chance - but Juan got us it sorted out for us. Ojala!
Now the hunt for the best Mojito begins - and it takes several - 8 or 9 - before we begin to think we are getting there. Then we have a perfect Strawberry daiquiri at "Floridita" - for lousy 6 euro each!
We gotta get out of here - see the country - soon we are heading for the south - Che´s Memorial in Santa Clara!

The thing with public internet connections

Blogging in Cuba is still more than just going to an internet cafè, sitting down and - GO... I assume there is about 1 terminal per 1000 turists - and it goes like this: You buy an hour time, you wait between 30 min and 1 hour, then you are able to check about 10 mails, write 3 and when just finnishing another blog item - and time is up! But at least the it´s nice and cool at the hotels and you can use their toilett and wash you hands which is especially nice after shaking hands with all my new ´hermanos´ who are willing to sell you just about anything - just not the thing you need - peace in mind.

Monday 22 January 2007

Alive en La Havana!

Arrived late on the 18th and after my first communist passport control and an hour of waiting for the luggage - I got a lift to the center by a Norwegian travel agency. When I got there, my hotel wasn't really awaiting me... They actally didn't have any clue I was coming. Thanks APOLLO, I surely will recommend you after this episode ...
Robin waited at the lobby bar - connecting well with the locals. After a shower, we hit our first salsa place - where the boys (or more likely their money) attracted quite a few chicas. Life is very real here in this respect - and I got a feeling we will see more of this during our trip...
Time is running out...
Internet access sucks / I'll get back to you! matz

Tuesday 16 January 2007

Don't die on me, Fidel!

During earlier vacations I climbed rock and ice, got altitude sickness, went wind surfing in Italy or did other "extreme sports". In a way, this CU/BA trip seemed a bit strange i the beginning, almost boring, since the "death potential" of salsa/tango dancing, eating, photography and visiting Cuban rum- and cigar factories is close to zero.

But faith takes funny turns... Today Norwegian TV reported the condition of the father de la revolucion is worsening after three rather unsuccessful operations. Don't die on me, Fidel!

Maybe this vacation is going to be more thrilling than I ever dared to imagine!?? Wish me suerte! Regards, your personal Cuba correspondent

Friday 12 January 2007

Restless-Fearful Waiting

The tickets were booked in June 2006. The Cuban map is hanging at the office door. Three Lonely-Planet-type books on Cuba and tango dancing in Buenos Aires have been moved around the apartment for months now; without too much reading done... It's less than a week to go, my English 'play mate' got his visa just in time - and is X-ited! To make my tango adventure a perfect one, I got a 2 1/2 hours survival kit of beta on Buenos Aires of my local profesores de tango L&L - with all the do's and don't's in the European Capital of Latin America. I even found a foster home for my six beloved koi and their bad black manta friend. The technical equipment to make this trip unforgetable and shareable with the 'left-behinds' is in place, too.
So I guess, I should feel content. But...

... at the moment - it's like being in No-Man's Land. You've basically left mentally already - only the body isn't allowed to follow just yet. Additionally there are the little things still to be done before departure - or worse - the fear of the big things waiting for you when you get back. Not to mention the latent thoughts like: "I must have forgotten something...!???" or "Does everything fit into the bag, without exceeding the lousy 20k-weight limit?".

Waiting for the plane to leave is a restless-fearful period! I feel like a prenatal tourist in the 39th week - when the belly is getting really tight, and you're uncertain if the doctor is going to be a he or a she...

Oh boy, if I only could switch places with you now!

CU/BA Intro - Enjoy!